Hamba nathi mkululu wethu
Come walk with us, the journey is long.
– Traditional South African Song
People on the Way,
We awoke just before the sun first peaked above Tuscany’s eastern hills and quickly made ready for our journey.
The forecast called for mid-90 degree weather, and we knew that for each moment the sun shone the temperature would inch upwards. We left our farm house 6:45 and made it to the town of Gambassi Terme a few minutes after 7. The sign just outside the Church of San Maria a Chianni announced the Via Francigena—our pilgrims’ trail—and after taking a photo to document our beginning, we were off at 7:20am.
The first kilometer descended on twisting tarmac and we had to watch the road and traffic. It was a relief to leave that behind and to be on a farm road that descended gradually toward the valley below. A view of San Gimignano in the distance set the goal right before us. The air was still cool, and our spirits high. “Come walk with us the journey is long…” Naomi and I sang, as the road descended past vineyards and olive groves, enjoying the still and abundant beauty of the vistas, morning bird song, and the joy of the road. For the first time in weeks I felt that we were pilgrims more than tourists; and my heart grew lighter and fuller even while the temperature rose.
Along the way I talked about Archbishop Sigeric, the newly appointed bishop of Canterbury Cathedral, who made a journey to Rome around 990 and kept a record of his stops on his way home. His diary is a unique document detailing the Via Francigena pilgrimage road and the churches in existence along the road at that time. We imagined him sharing in the same vistas as we were—with changes, of course—traversing the same streams, and walking up and down the same valleys and hills. And not only him but the thousands upon thousands of pilgrims who likewise made this physical/spiritual journey over the last millennium, whether for practical reasons or with the expectation that they were on a journey with sacred dimensions.
Lent is a season of pilgrimage and we follow in the footsteps of Jesus who was on his own pilgrimage from the hills of Galilee to the hill of Golgotha. Like our journey on the Via Francigena, this Lenten journey we share offers places where we pilgrims can stop for rest and refreshment. Sunday mornings and Wednesday evenings are “way stations” where we can pause to be fed with Word and Food and be refreshed by Water. We need it, for the journey is long.
As the sun moved higher and shone brighter and hotter on our family as we ascended the dusty Tuscan trail, we were relieved to find a small grotto, tended by a local family, which offered shade and water. Turning the spigot, we pointed the hose to hands, heads and necks and let the cool water flow over us. What exquisite refreshment! What joy! Filling our bottles and rinsing our hats and bandanas, we caught a second wind that propelled us on the next leg of our pilgrimage.
What are the essentials for this journey we’re on this Lent? Two things are most important: we keep our eyes on Jesus; we keep track of each other. Holding each other close, we guide one another back to baptismal waters, and then to the table, where Christ meets us and gives us bread for the continuing journey.
Come back to that source this Lent! Let us journey together with Christ toward death and new life!
With you on the way,
Pastor Erik